"Crossing the Miles"

Arm in Arm in Africa: A Retrospective

We thought it might be helpful to have a bit of background on the areas we have been traveling through and the conditions that exist.

"Rural Boys"

Each day in South Africa brings us to something new and different. Last week, we mentioned the contrasts we observed within Cape Town and neighboring townships. Since then, we have traveled more than 1,000 miles along the coast and inland to rural communities, the unique characteristics of each region became evident. The diversity varied with the natural environment, historical government, population, community development and other factors. Each area is faced with their own unique opportunities and challenges.

For example, coastal communities have always provided safe harbor for global shipping operations. They are also expanding their appeal as an international tourism destination. As you walk through developed areas, you will find groups of people speaking English (British and Australian visitors), German, Dutch, Norwegian, Spanish and other languages. According to some, there has been a recent increase in tourism from populations who might normally vacation in America but feel South Africa might be safer at the present time.

We drove past thousands of acres that are developed for agricultural purposes. South Africa has wonderful conditions to grow everything from staple foods (corn, wheat, etc.) to more exotic crops (pineapple, mango, citrus, etc.). A country rich in natural resources, you also see the world’s largest platinum mines (as well as gold and other precious materials). However, none of this development is possible without government support, capital investment, logistical infrastructure and other elements necessary to succeed. With the end of Apartheid and lifting of economic sanctions, more South Africans and international investors are positioned to benefit from these developments.

"City Boys"

Even with this growth, there is nowhere near enough jobs to support the population. National statistics report unemployment at 37%… but averages hide the variability in the true statistics. Cities like Cape Town, Johannesburg, Port Arthur, George and East London serve as centers for economic development with high employment rates. Drive just a few miles away from a city center and unemployment can exceed 80%. Townships like Guguletu outside Cape Town and Soweto outside Johannesburg are over-flowing with millions of people coming to the city in search of work. Why would they choose the townships when conditions are so poor and the likelihood for employment is so limited? Believe it or not, conditions in the rural areas can be even worse. There is extreme poverty and virtually no development potential.

Major cities in this large country are separated great distances (hundreds of miles). The huge expanses between communities are dotted with occasional farms, industrial developments and rural villages. Many people in the villages, such as Malengeni, do not have access to electricity, running water, transportation, or support systems (medical, education, telephone, etc.). Attention is first given to the basic necessities, such as food and shelter. Women spend 90% of their time caring for children, tending a few sustenance crops, gathering firewood and collecting water from neighboring streams (some have devices to catch occasional rain water).

Most people walk the many miles between villages and towns, unable even to afford the unregulated “taxis” (10-18 people piled into the back of a pickup or van) that roam rural roadways. Young people have access to rural schools by walking several miles each morning and afternoon. Men (young and old) tend small herds (some cattle and sheep), attempt to find jobs or leverage skills that can be bartered for the family’s needs.

Most people live from meal to meal, which may be separated by days instead of hours. This has driven some people to theft, alcohol and/or abuse as an escape. According to those who traveled to Mulengeni last year, there have been several changes that indicate conditions are improving. People have scavenged materials to erect more fences, to keep roaming livestock out of gardens. There are other indicators, such as seeing more children with shoes and adequate clothing. Some things haven’t changed, such as the wonderful spirit of hope the people have and the elation of children seeing their “American family” visiting again. We will be sharing more about our experiences in the villages and the people we’ve met in other stories soon.

Jeff and Rita Nohner have volunteered to act as scribe and shutterbug for this journey to South Africa. Jeff is also the designer of the www.ArmInArmInAfrica.org website which we encourage you to visit.