Leaving Lebanon

October 4th, 2002
Beirut, Lebanon

Greetings from Beirut,

We have been in Lebanon since Monday night. We have toured Shatilla Camp for Palestinian refugees, met with three archbishops and gone to Saide (Biblical Sidon) and Sur (Tyre). We have met with several PLO representatives and heard their constant concern about 'the right of return' to their Palestinian homeland. Many refugees have been in the camps in Lebanon all their lives since their parents were forced to come here with the establishing of the Israeli state in 1948. What were once makeshift camps made up of tents have become large and ugly neighborhoods with permanent buildings. The Palestinians can move about freely, but are prohibited from taking many jobs that would jeopardize jobs for Lebanese. We met with the United Nations Director of services to the camps and some wonderful women who coordinate educational programs within the camps.

The economy in Lebanon is in very bad shape since the Civil War which ended in 1990. And there is still much devastation in what was once a beautiful city - the jewel of the Middle East. The tripartite split between Christians, Sunnis and Shiites continues to be fragile.

We also went to Khiam Detention Camp where Palestinians were kept in oppressive circumstances during the Israeli occupation of Lebanon which ended in 1984. There we met with the local Imam who was very gracious but firm in stating that President Bush is now a terrorist. We also went down to the border with Israel which is heavily mined but appears very tranquil.

One night we were the guests of the Abu Saba family in the small hill town of Mia Mia near Sidon. Elias Abu Saba, our host, took us to his ancestral home where his niece cooked an exquisite Lebanese meal for us. There were 12 of us at table including a Lebanese legislature who was very articulate and shared his political views with us candidly on everything from Israel to Iraq. Julie and Michael stayed in the home of a local PLO leader and his family and had a wonderful time overcoming the language barrier. George stayed with Elias in his family home in Mia Mia.

We continue to enjoy the fabulous Lebanese cuisine with lots of eggplant, humus, tabbouleh, kibby and olives with lots of herbs, especially thyme.

We are trying to get through the layers of complexity of history, politics and regional struggles. The entire region is thrown into turmoil because of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict. The numbers and needs of the refugees take a significant toll on the host countries.

We fly back to Amann early tomorrow. And then take a bus to the Allanby Bridge where we will enter Israel. We are feeling encouraged since we have contacts in both the U.S. Embassies in Tel Aviv and Amann. We look forward to the different perspectives we will encounter at the very heart of the crisis.

People here are concerned about the escalation of rhetoric about Iraq. But people distinguish clearly between the U.S. government and the American people. Everyone is very gracious and accommodating.

We miss you all very much and hope all is well at home.

George, Julie and Michael