Report 3
Saturday, September 22, 2001 Guguletu, South Africa
| The government must call a national emergency on HIV/AIDS - and wake up from its “State of Denial” over the number of people who are infected and dying of the disease, a new alliance said yesterday.
The call came from trade unions, bishops of the Anglican and Catholic churches, and the Treatment Action Campaign who found a new front this week to challenge the government on its Aids policies.
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We have been in South Africa four days. We have seen much. This morning we saw the “Face of AIDS.”
At 10:30 Saturday, burial day in South Africa, we drove to a large sports center complex. A facility of some size was needed for the funeral of Sbongile who at five years of age died of AIDS. It was just a year ago in Reverend Spiwo’s church that Sbongile’s aunt brought her to the front of the congregation so Spiwo could talk about loving and caring for the sick children. Sbongile’s mother had already died of the disease. This little girl became a symbol to many and the crowd was large. Between waves of songs, doctors, nurses, and clergy rose up to give witness to the bravery of this little girl. The doctors also spoke to the people about demanding more help from the government. When many in the congregation rose up to soulfully march around the little casket singing and chanting in their Xhosa language, it was hard to hold back the tears.
“Take them to the graveyard” Spiwo had told the drivers. A short distance away our cars drove slowly into a large desert flatland, land that is sand and crosses, hundreds of crosses. As we entered the cemetery, six large groups of mourners could be seen at various parts of the burial fields. Twenty minutes later we went to leave and got blocked in a traffic jam at the entrance to the cemetery. The funerals were ending and the chartered buses and cars brought streams of mourners through the gates. This was the “face of AIDS.”
| There is, however, a “trend of denial” about the pandemic within the government. The bishops have said the clergy were burying increasing numbers of people who had died of AIDS related illnesses and the media reports of cemeteries filling up fast were true.
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Saturday morning had started out even more dramatic for us. The morning paper’s headlines screamed in bold letters “War Only Days Away.” Some of us met to consider world conditions and it was decided that the first morning event would be a drive to the American Consulate in Cape Town. We circled the town until we located the building. Knowing that it was Saturday and the Consulate would be closed, we thought we might find somebody. Our two cars were met by four uniformed military. We explained our concerns and after calls were made, the sole staff person on duty agreed to see us. Entering the lobby, we were searched and escorted to the elevators, sent to the 4th floor and again went through metal detectors and locked doors. Even the duty officer spoke to us through a glass panel. We were told we were in no danger but our passports, airflight times, travel destination, and contact numbers were all left with the officer, who assured us we would be contacted should conditions change.
I asked him if he had any advice for us and in all seriousness he said, “Well it might not be a good idea to eat in American restaurants like McDonalds.” When we left the building, we noticed the front door had been smashed. It was a sobering visit.
The next move was to stop at the airport on our way to Guguletu to check any flight changes and to get something to eat and wait for Jan du Toit. Jan arrived and we explained our concerns and adventures. He smiled and said, “Well for starters, the airport restaurant is owned by an American corporation. Now we must go, I have to take you to Stellenbosch.” We left our carts at the airport crowded into a van. We were off to see some of the history of South Africa. The evening was spent with Jan and Spiwo and Zetu and their children. It was Jan’s birthday and the eight Americans were giving him a party. It was a wonderful evening and I thought of the words Eric Kombela had said to me as I thought about Jan. “This man is a friend of my friend, therefore he is my friend.”
-Chuck MacDonald
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